Actually, lesson #1 is pre stuck button. I own a 2018 K1600 GTL and have been GW curious most of my adult life. Bought a 65k mile 2002 a few weeks back to scratch that itch and see if it would replace the GTL. I've only searched out ABS bikes as I have all of my original skin from ABS saving my bacon twice. Drove 170 miles with a trailer to see 2 bikes within 10 miles of each other. First one did not make the cut and went onto the 2002, having received a YES to my texted question "Is this an ABS bike". It wasn't.
LESSON #1-Get pictures of encoder ring or ABS light or anything optional you don't see in the ad
Bought it anyway. Well cared for inside and out and price was right
Prev owner had told me in advance that cruise was not working, mechanic said part was $350 to fix, he never uses cruise anyway, and his mechanic "disconnected" it. I CAN fix anything, but I prefer to spend time riding.
CC button was stuck "in" so should have been on. But it was off. PO doesn't like CC and couldn't brook looking at the cruise on indicator. I knew I could undo anything his mechanic did, so no issues there.
After an inspection and good long test ride we agreed on a deal and prepared to load up. It was then I recognized I had not tested reverse. I'd pulled into his driveway from the street and had to back out anyway, so into reverse and out onto the street, directly at right angles to traffic from either direction. Yeah you guessed it-reverse switch stuck in. Cars approaching. Motor running. Me flicking the switch to get it to pop. Cars now close enough to hear driver muttering. PO runs out to help and accidently rotates kill switch. Now have a 900 lb anchor with worlds most effective parking brake. Cars honking. I send him off to grab WD-40 and with a thorough soaking I get lucky. Middle fingers of all parties safely back where they belong. Temp fix and in the trailer.
LESSON #2 Test reverse parallel to traffic.
Once home and after a couple of shakeout rides, I decide to verify "everything just serviced" by pulling the top shelter to change out the air filter and at the same time hopefully find that the mechanic pulled the (18P? if I recall) connector out of the CC module. Lacking that I could at least wring out the wiring between switch case and CC module to find disconnection point. Turns out air filter is brand new (good!), CC connector is intact (bad), and no junctions to switch gear are disturbed (worse). Anyway, gave me an opportunity to correct some hokey unfused lamp cord wiring done to add bag lights and damp cloth wash the entire interior. My worst fear is that the very short wiring was cut at the switch.
Turns out it was a wee bit worse.
Switchgear disassembly revealed that someone had visited here, ever before the CC mechanic as there was an 1 1/2" added to each CC wire with open soldered connections before the switch, and one of those had been cut. They further assured malfunction by removing and discarding the top 1/2 of the dust cover and in true belt and suspenders fashion freed the return spring from its home under the contact plate. I think the Russians called this scorched earth policy.
God bless Fred Harmon for his final 2 pics with a caliper on said AWOL spring (https://pbase.com/fredharmon/image/154924887) With this I ordered 3 different gauges of spring from WB Jones (springfast.com). The one that worked best was C04-016-018 with 1-1/2 coils cut off. PM me if that number does not compute. Hard to read the bag-will chase my original order paperwork)
Switchcase screws were a bit buggered from previous use of phillips bit
LESSON #3-Have a set of JIS drivers on hand
LESSON #4-Jump those 2 wires to see everything work before going further. Mine didn't-ught oh. Then I noticed kill switch had gotten flipped. CC won't alight until in run. All's right with the world now
Undoing the throttle cables is easy once you completely slacken the cable tension of the "open throttle" cable and turn fully open to undo "close throttle" cable from underneath first. Then return to fully closed and pull open throttle cable off.
LESSON #5-Much easier to work on switch case if you remove brake lever. Just a 10mm nut and unscrew pivot bolt. Give the bolt a dap of greasy love on installation and mind the brake light and CC disengage switches.
Since my wire was cut anyway, I cut the other and took the whole enchilada inside to my work desk. While Fred's pictures seemed to show the 2 sprung contacts nested neatly in the slider, mine were decidedly less so and it seemed a real handful to click that switchplate back on at the handlebar.
LESSON #6-This one's a judgement call. If you have reasonable soldering skills and less reasonable hand steadiness, cut the switchplate off and reassemble complete switch on the bench. Attach new, longer wires to the switch plate-there's plenty of room to tuck it in in he switchgear. Don't forget to slide the shrink tubing on first
So, cleaning, assembling, and dielectric greasing has been well covered. Work on towels, keep all parts in a cup or magnetic bowl. But still, my grubby little 65 year old fingers dropped the little spring under the contact twice. Once it landed in the crease of my thumb/hand, and the other nestled neatly on my sock.
LESSON #7-God watches over fools and drunks.
Then I knocked the cup over
LESSON #8-Fu*^.k the cup. Magnetic bowl.
I'm fit and strong but most of the holes in my head have something wrong with them, and my hands ain't as steady as they once were.
LESSON #9-That lit desk lamp with the articulating magnifier I bought 20 years ago to fix the kids IPod screens owes me nothing.
Working on that little switch requires some surgeon worthy dexterity. Toothpicks and Q-Tips work nicely with grease and contact cleaner. A small vial of DeOxit is especially nice
LESSON #10-I used a set of 3rd hands soldering rig to hold the switch by the screw mount tab while working on it. The kind with 2 rotating alligator clips and a magnifier in the middle. Looks like a crab coming at you, Cheap as chips from Amazon.
So now back to the bike to reconnect everything. Pretty straightforward. Tested it before final reassembly and worked like a charm. Reassembled the switch gear, turn the key, hit the button. and......lots of nothing.
Crap. Bet I pinched a wire I had so much room for, or my solder joint wasn't as good as it seemed.
Pull it all apart and solder connections are good, nothing pinched. Then I noticed kill switch had gotten flipped. CC won't alight until in run. All's right with the world now
LESSON #11-JB weld the kill switch in on position![:roll:]( "Rolling Eyes")
LESSON #1-Get pictures of encoder ring or ABS light or anything optional you don't see in the ad
Bought it anyway. Well cared for inside and out and price was right
Prev owner had told me in advance that cruise was not working, mechanic said part was $350 to fix, he never uses cruise anyway, and his mechanic "disconnected" it. I CAN fix anything, but I prefer to spend time riding.
CC button was stuck "in" so should have been on. But it was off. PO doesn't like CC and couldn't brook looking at the cruise on indicator. I knew I could undo anything his mechanic did, so no issues there.
After an inspection and good long test ride we agreed on a deal and prepared to load up. It was then I recognized I had not tested reverse. I'd pulled into his driveway from the street and had to back out anyway, so into reverse and out onto the street, directly at right angles to traffic from either direction. Yeah you guessed it-reverse switch stuck in. Cars approaching. Motor running. Me flicking the switch to get it to pop. Cars now close enough to hear driver muttering. PO runs out to help and accidently rotates kill switch. Now have a 900 lb anchor with worlds most effective parking brake. Cars honking. I send him off to grab WD-40 and with a thorough soaking I get lucky. Middle fingers of all parties safely back where they belong. Temp fix and in the trailer.
LESSON #2 Test reverse parallel to traffic.
Once home and after a couple of shakeout rides, I decide to verify "everything just serviced" by pulling the top shelter to change out the air filter and at the same time hopefully find that the mechanic pulled the (18P? if I recall) connector out of the CC module. Lacking that I could at least wring out the wiring between switch case and CC module to find disconnection point. Turns out air filter is brand new (good!), CC connector is intact (bad), and no junctions to switch gear are disturbed (worse). Anyway, gave me an opportunity to correct some hokey unfused lamp cord wiring done to add bag lights and damp cloth wash the entire interior. My worst fear is that the very short wiring was cut at the switch.
Turns out it was a wee bit worse.
Switchgear disassembly revealed that someone had visited here, ever before the CC mechanic as there was an 1 1/2" added to each CC wire with open soldered connections before the switch, and one of those had been cut. They further assured malfunction by removing and discarding the top 1/2 of the dust cover and in true belt and suspenders fashion freed the return spring from its home under the contact plate. I think the Russians called this scorched earth policy.
God bless Fred Harmon for his final 2 pics with a caliper on said AWOL spring (https://pbase.com/fredharmon/image/154924887) With this I ordered 3 different gauges of spring from WB Jones (springfast.com). The one that worked best was C04-016-018 with 1-1/2 coils cut off. PM me if that number does not compute. Hard to read the bag-will chase my original order paperwork)
Switchcase screws were a bit buggered from previous use of phillips bit
LESSON #3-Have a set of JIS drivers on hand
LESSON #4-Jump those 2 wires to see everything work before going further. Mine didn't-ught oh. Then I noticed kill switch had gotten flipped. CC won't alight until in run. All's right with the world now
Undoing the throttle cables is easy once you completely slacken the cable tension of the "open throttle" cable and turn fully open to undo "close throttle" cable from underneath first. Then return to fully closed and pull open throttle cable off.
LESSON #5-Much easier to work on switch case if you remove brake lever. Just a 10mm nut and unscrew pivot bolt. Give the bolt a dap of greasy love on installation and mind the brake light and CC disengage switches.
Since my wire was cut anyway, I cut the other and took the whole enchilada inside to my work desk. While Fred's pictures seemed to show the 2 sprung contacts nested neatly in the slider, mine were decidedly less so and it seemed a real handful to click that switchplate back on at the handlebar.
LESSON #6-This one's a judgement call. If you have reasonable soldering skills and less reasonable hand steadiness, cut the switchplate off and reassemble complete switch on the bench. Attach new, longer wires to the switch plate-there's plenty of room to tuck it in in he switchgear. Don't forget to slide the shrink tubing on first
So, cleaning, assembling, and dielectric greasing has been well covered. Work on towels, keep all parts in a cup or magnetic bowl. But still, my grubby little 65 year old fingers dropped the little spring under the contact twice. Once it landed in the crease of my thumb/hand, and the other nestled neatly on my sock.
LESSON #7-God watches over fools and drunks.
Then I knocked the cup over
LESSON #8-Fu*^.k the cup. Magnetic bowl.
I'm fit and strong but most of the holes in my head have something wrong with them, and my hands ain't as steady as they once were.
LESSON #9-That lit desk lamp with the articulating magnifier I bought 20 years ago to fix the kids IPod screens owes me nothing.
Working on that little switch requires some surgeon worthy dexterity. Toothpicks and Q-Tips work nicely with grease and contact cleaner. A small vial of DeOxit is especially nice
LESSON #10-I used a set of 3rd hands soldering rig to hold the switch by the screw mount tab while working on it. The kind with 2 rotating alligator clips and a magnifier in the middle. Looks like a crab coming at you, Cheap as chips from Amazon.
So now back to the bike to reconnect everything. Pretty straightforward. Tested it before final reassembly and worked like a charm. Reassembled the switch gear, turn the key, hit the button. and......lots of nothing.
Crap. Bet I pinched a wire I had so much room for, or my solder joint wasn't as good as it seemed.
Pull it all apart and solder connections are good, nothing pinched. Then I noticed kill switch had gotten flipped. CC won't alight until in run. All's right with the world now
LESSON #11-JB weld the kill switch in on position
Statistics: Posted by mjhinno — Sun May 05, 2024 3:01 pm